Pond Plants
Aquatic plants are necessary to control the healthy balance in these bodies of water, as they help prevent algae from proliferating. Its proper selection is as important as the other factors involved in the design and functionality of this type of habitat in a garden. In addition, they represent a natural solution to the frequent and harmful use of chemical products or artificial filtration devices.
Incorporating a variety of plants will reduce the amount of maintenance required to maintain clean water by filtering out sediment and pollution from the pond. Aquatic plants also consume nitrates from the water, and since algae require sunlight, water, and nutrients, including nitrates and phosphates, to thrive, having sufficient vegetation will outcompete algae and help control their growth. To achieve optimal water quality and beautify your pond, below are the best plants you can have.
Types of Plants for Ponds
Marginal plants: They grow around the edges or margins of the pond where the water is shallow. They usually have their ground and crown (their growing point) underwater, and sometimes their lower foliage as well. They are usually placed on shallow planting shelves within the pond, but if you don't have shelves, your pots can be placed on things like house bricks to raise them to the correct height. To be considered a true marginal pond plant, the variety must be able to tolerate completely waterlogged soil or water over its canopy throughout the year.
A plant that tolerates permanently wet soil, but will not tolerate water on its canopy or foliage, is considered a bog plant. There is a wide variety of bog plants available, but a much smaller variety of true fringe plants. Unfortunately, many attractive bog plants are sold as marginal plants. On the other hand, they generally have recommended planting depths: they refer to the depth of water above the crown or growing point of the plant (which is about the same as the depth of water above soil level).
Therefore, a plant with a recommended planting depth of 0-10cm should be grown anywhere from moist or waterlogged soil to 10cm of water above its crown. You can actually grow most marginals in less water than this if you need to, as in a regular flower bed, as long as their soil isn't allowed to dry out completely. However, you should never grow them in water deeper than the maximum recommended.
Oxygenating plants: they are the ones that have all their foliage under water. They can live on deeper shelves or at the bottom of the pond, or even float suspended in the water; they will grow at any depth where there is light. They are the plants that are sometimes called "pond grass"; They usually have fine and delicate foliage. A good example would be the cat's tail. They are often fast growing and can absorb food through their leaves and roots, which means they are good at absorbing excess nutrients from the water.
This can help remove algae and weeds, thus preventing the water from turning green. These plants also provide important habitats for aquatic invertebrates and spawning sites for amphibians and fish. Also, because all plants give off oxygen, your submerged vegetation will increase the oxygen levels in the pond during daylight hours. This is where the name comes from, although thanks to the fact that oxygen is lost at night, it is not really an important function. They also give a very natural and pleasant look to the pond, with their lush underwater foliage.
floating plants: as their name suggests, they are plants that float freely in water and do not have true roots. Some of these plants are also oxygenating and have fine foliage underwater, while others are more like water lilies and have all of their foliage on the surface of the water. Floating plants are quick to place in the pond because they don't need pots and are quick and easy to remove if they ever need to be cleared. They also provide shade to the pond, and because they absorb their nutrients directly from the water, they will outcompete algae and help keep them in check.
Deep sea aquatic plants: they are plants that grow in deep shelves or on the bottom of the pond, but unlike the oxygenators, most of their foliage is on or above the surface of the water. Deepwater aquatics will not grow outside the pond, for example in a damp flower bed or bog garden; they need water above ground to grow. This category would include water lilies (although for convenience, water lilies are usually listed separately in plant catalogs).
Aside from water lilies, good examples would be the flowering reed or the floating four-leaf clover. In addition to their attractive appearance, these plants can also provide shade for the pond (which can help with green water) and cover the pond's fish and wildlife. Because they start out fairly deep underwater and then emerge into the air, they are also the best plants for dragonfly and damselfly larvae to crawl on.
Specimens for ponds
Once you know the aforementioned classification of pond plants, we can mention some examples of vegetation that are commonly used by many pond owners who seek to give a conducive and charming environment to that place. Additionally, each of them are easy to get in stores or online, so below, we will describe the most recognized pond plants that exist today:
Plant Water Lilies (Nuphar and Nymphaea spp.)
It is a deep water plant that stands out for its lotus flower, they are recommended to be used in large ponds, but in smaller ponds with a depth of about 18 centimeters, they can also be used. It is useful to know that to grow pond plants that need to grow in the ground but will have their roots underwater, it is not necessary to pour soil into the preformed liner to try to form a real pond bottom, it is easier to grow it in pots with a mixture of sand and clay, then cover it with gravel or small crushed stones before placing this container in the water.
Purple pitcher plant (Sarracenia purpurea)
It falls under the category of marsh plants and is one of the best to include in a pond in two ways, ie if the pond is shallow you can grow pitcher plants in a pot placed in water, but you can also Plant directly into the soil surrounding this type of water source as long as it remains moist. This type of plant offers interesting foliage and fantastic flowers.
Rodgers flowering plant (Rodgersia pinnata)
It is a marsh plant that offers pretty light pink flowers for use in ponds that are against a wall. They provide a more suitable background that can add visual appeal to the water garden by placing them on the edge of a water feature. It is distinguished by being a perennial plant that can reach a meter in height and is valued for its abundant leaves of about 30 centimeters, its rough texture, irregular edges and shades of bronze in spring, green in summer and reddish in autumn.
Japanese sweet flag grass (Acorus spp)
It is a perennial aquatic plant with light green to golden yellow lance-shaped leaves and a pleasant scent, often used along the edges of landscape ponds to help brighten dark areas of the garden. Calamos, as they are also called, reach up to a meter in height, while dwarf cultivars can measure as little as 8 centimeters. The species grows slowly but often needs to be controlled by division over time to prevent excessive spread.
These pond plants produce small greenish-yellow flowers on spikes in spring and early summer, followed by red berries. To grow the Japanese sweet flag directly in a pond, the plant is first placed in a container and then submerged in water less than 10 centimeters deep, but it should be considered that if the herbaceous plants do not grow at the water's edge, they should be water frequently to keep the soil moist.
Tips for Planting in Ponds
The first question that must be answered is where should I locate the pond? Most pond plants like full sun or partial shade; few will grow well in deeper shade, so keep this in mind when deciding where to place your pond. Sunny sites also attract more bees and dragonflies. The pond will look more natural if it is placed at the lowest point in your garden or where water naturally collects.
Most people know that a high-placed pond looks bad even if they can't say why. It's also worth considering what you'd like the pond to accomplish: if you want to sit by it with a cup of tea, is it close to home? Check that you can access the pond for thin plants or clear debris when needed. If you want wildlife to benefit, will they be easily disturbed and does the pond have a cover that allows them to approach unseen? And finally, if the pond is near trees or bushes.
The second tip we can mention about growing pond plants is when should you plant in it? People often wonder if it's too early or too late to plant their pond, but in fact, you can plant your pond at any time of the year. The optimum time for most potted pond plants is late winter or early spring, as this means they go into their new pots with soil and fresh food just before they start to grow, so they get the most benefit from this.
However, this is preferable, not essential, and also depends on the qualities for which you have chosen the plant. For example, if you've chosen a plant that blooms in early spring, it may be best to plant and settle it the previous fall so it won't be moved or cut while flowers form. Or if you are planting a natural pond with an earth bottom, it will be more pleasant to plant, the water will be shallower and the plants will establish faster.
To finish, you should talk about the number of pond plants you need, in addition to giving some recommendations on what types to choose. Generally speaking, there is no "right" way to plant your pond; like any part of the garden, it depends on your personal preferences. However, here are some things to consider. First of all, for a nice look, try to have one-third to two-thirds of the water surface covered by oxygenating plants and plants with floating leaves like water lilies, and the rest clear. Try to have marginal plants about one-third to two-thirds from the edge of the pond and the rest open.
This rule is also optimal for breeding fish, which do not like completely open ponds or completely covered ponds. At the same time, around the edge of the pond, try to have a mix of taller and shorter marginal plants. Do not space plants evenly around the border as this will look unnatural: plant in groups. For larger ponds, you can purchase several of the same plant and place them together in a larger pot.
Choose the plants you'd like, then calculate how many meters of water surface or pond edge you'd like to cover. From this you can calculate how many of each of the pond plants you would need. Remember that planting densities are just a guide, and growth rates will vary depending on how sunny or deep your pond is, what soil you use, where you are, what plant varieties you choose. For most people, budget will be the main limiting factor in the number of plants they purchase when setting up their pond. Don't forget to budget for any pots or soil you may need.
As mentioned above, most pond plants like a position that is either sunny or partially shaded. If you plant them in deeper shade, they will usually survive, but won't bloom well or won't bloom at all. If you have a shaded area, consider non-blooming plants such as grasses or ferns such as Japanese rush, or water horsetail; they will tolerate fairly deep shade and their evergreen foliage looks best when grown in a sheltered spot.
Also, lemna trisulca is a floating plant that does extremely well even in deep shade, and in this situation, it will look cooler and cleaner than in the sun. Creeping plants such as bog grass, waterhole, and watermint will generally produce nice-looking foliage in the shade, even if they don't flower. Oxygenating plants will also grow in the shade, although more slowly. If your shade is due to tree cover and is absent in the spring, marsh marigolds, a spring-blooming plant, are a good choice.
Aside from these, it may simply be a case of experimenting until you find what works for your location. Plants to avoid if you have a shady pond would be water lilies (consider water thorns instead), water lilies, and cotton plants. On the other hand, choose pond plants that bloom different colors and at different times of the year (marsh marigolds for yellow flowers in spring, loosestrife for pink flowers in early summer, pike plants for blue flowers in late summer, among other).
Foliage is also important – try to pick one or two things that are evergreen, like Japanese rush or water horsetail, to give the pond some winter interest. For a balanced look, choose tall, spindly plants and short, bushy plants. If you are trying to hide the edge of the pond, choose plants with creeping stems like water mint. These grow in moist soil and shallow water, but also move to the surface of deeper water, covering it.
At the same time, the more oxygenating plants and plants with floating leaves you have, the less algae you will get. They are also the best type of pond plants to provide cover for fish.
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