Persian Violet Care and Irrigation

  • The Persian Violet, or Cyclamen persicum, is a herbaceous plant that blooms in winter.
  • It requires indirect light and temperatures between 12°C and 20°C to grow properly.
  • Capillary irrigation is ideal to avoid damaging leaves and flowers.
  • It is sensitive to fungi and pests, so disinfection and preventative control are recommended.

The Persian Violet is a herbaceous plant of about 30 to 40 centimeters in height that has the scientific name of cyclamen persicum, It belongs to the Primulaceae family and is native, as its name says, to Persia in the Middle East, its distribution also covers the Alps of Europe, in this post you will learn about the care of the Persian Violet and its irrigation.

PERSIAN VIOLET

The Persian Violet

The Persian Violet, also known as Cyclamen and Alpine violet, has the scientific name of  cyclamen persicum, It is a herbaceous plant that measures between 30 to 40 centimeters, which is characterized by blooming during the winter months, which makes it very attractive because there are few plants that bloom at that time.   

The flowers of Violet of Persia, have large petals that close one on top of the other giving a particular appearance to its flowers, the colors of the petals vary from white, pink, purple, salmon and scarlet. Its leaves have heart-shaped shapes with a long petiole and the upper part of the leaves has silver spots creating one or another pattern. It is a plant that can live for several years, if the maintenance is adequate.

During its vegetative phase it presents a period of dormancy in the warmer months of the year, this situation changes as temperatures begin to drop and humidity increases with the rain falls. It is one of the few plants that has flowering in the months that occur in the seasons of autumn, winter and early spring. Likewise, the size of its flowers is observed smaller in older plants than in young plants, in which its flowers are larger. This plant prefers small pots to flower.

Care

When Persian Violet is grown in houses, sometimes these plants last very little, apparently because they are affected by the warm temperatures of the place where they are installed. In case you want to enjoy a large number of open flowers most of the time, it is suggested to buy a plant with many flower buds that are in the process of being ripe to open. For the Persian Violet to adapt well in houses, it must have the following conditions:

The lighting: They are plants that grow best in places where sunlight reaches them indirectly, so it has to be grown in places with little direct sunlight, due to this it is preferable when growing it in the garden to place it in pots or plant it under of the trees. In case of growing in a space inside a house or greenhouse, locate near a place that receives intense light some hours of the day.

PERSIAN VIOLET

So that the temperature it receives stays a little cooler, it is suggested to locate it, when it is grown indoors, in a place that faces north and place it near a window so that it receives air, always preventing it from receiving light. indirect sun. Care must be taken to place it near a lamp, fireplace, stove or any other source of heat, because the plant falls asleep, its flowers fall and the leaves open.

According to several growers, these plants grow best at different temperature ranges, depending on their growth stage and time of year. According to several researchers, the optimal temperatures for these plants are in a range between 12°C to 20°C, after transplanting it supports temperatures between 16 to 18°C. Likewise, during the summer season, the optimal temperature seems to be between 18°C ​​to 20°C and, when temperatures begin to decrease, those that best support it are between 12°C and 15°C, from the month October that begins its flowering.

ambient humidityl: It is convenient to grow the Persian Violet in a place where there is good humidity and the environment is cool, it is suggested to place the pot on a plate with wet sand, to keep the plant cool without plugging the soil. Time to plant. This plant is suggested to be planted between mid to late summer, this will help the Persian Violet to bloom well in the fall months or early spring season.

Subscriber or fertilization: It is suggested to fertilize with liquid fertilizer through the irrigation water every two to three weeks (15 or 20 days), during its growth and flowering stage, it has to be a low nitrogen fertilizer and in this way the growth of leaves. It is convenient to apply a fertilizer where the amount of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is kept in balance because the latter is very important for flowering.

soil aeration: The soil must be light so that there is good aeration. Once flowering is over, it is suggested to remove the leaves from the Persian Violet plant, the leaves are pulled until the stem detaches from the bulb, with the aim of removing any portion of the stem and thus it is not exposed to diseases. Likewise, when flowering is over, that is, when the flowers and leaves dry up and disappear, the soil is changed, and fertilized soil and peat are placed on it so that the mixture remains airy and spongy.

This is done when about 4 to 5 months have passed after planting the Persian Violet plant, and it has about 10 to 12 leaves, it can be moved to a pot of 8-9 centimeters in diameter and then to one between 12 to 14 centimeters in diameter. This transplant can also be done directly to the definitive pot, carrying out a good control of irrigation and fertilization, using a balanced substrate or soil. Once transplanted, it is suggested to add long-lasting fertilizer along with the substrate.

If you are growing a minicyclame, its cultivation is direct in the final pot of 8 to 9 cm. substrate or soil. It is suggested to sow the Persian Violet in a substrate or acidic soil with a pH close to 6.

Irrigation

This plant is best watered by capillarity, to avoid damaging the leaves and flowers. That is, do not water the plants from above with a watering can, nor water the land. It is suggested to place the water in a garden saucer under the pot and that the water level moistens the soil, without having the water level exceed the bulb. The water will be able to penetrate through the holes in the pot and moisten the soil. After a minute to two minutes pass, the plate is removed. In this way the excess water drains off. Irrigation frequency. It is watered when it touches the ground and it is dry.

Propagation and Multiplication

Horticulturists who sell Persian Violet plants propagate them only by seeds, which are obtained by specialized growers, because obtaining Persian Violet seeds is a bit difficult, it should be noted that their germination percentage decreases around of the third year. To propagate by seeds, 3-centimeter multilocular trays are used, and once the seeds are placed, they are covered with a little soil or the substrate used.

The pH of the soil or substrate is suggested to be around 6. To improve the nutritional quality of the substrate or soil, it is recommended to fertilize with fertilizer rich in micronutrients and then the following week diluted fertilizer is applied to the irrigation water, with small doses of macronutrients with a lower percentage of nitrogen and higher percentages of phosphorus and potassium.

The Persian Violet has a germination period of about 4 weeks, the ideal temperature is around 18°C ​​to 20°C, at least 15°C and maximum 22°C. When using dark germination chambers at temperatures of 17°C. After 80 to 90 days, the first true leaves appear. To obtain new hybrids with genetic improvements, it is necessary to work with the propagation of cultivation vitro, by dividing corms.

Cultivation

To contribute to their health, dry or withered flowers and leaves are removed, to prevent parasites from falling on them. To induce its flowering once the plant is developed, try to place the Persian Violet at a temperature that ranges between 13°C to 15°C at night. Another treatment is the application of between 20 to 30 ppm of GA3 on the floral crown, always trying not to cause the peduncles to splay.

Characteristics of the Persian Violet

The Persian Violet is a plant with a bulb-like stem, with a perennial life cycle, with an average height of between 30 to 38 centimeters. There are also cultivars or smaller varieties, which are called minicyclame. Like the larger ones, they have flowers with very bright colors. Its tubercle is dark in color and is round and flattened.

Its leaves are heart-shaped and fleshy in appearance with a long petiole. It features dark green leaves with silver-colored spots that show up in different shapes. Its flowers are solitary and hermaphrodite. They are born at the end of the peduncle, they have five petals with a wavy shape, with a velvety texture, which are arranged backwards and their petals can be of different very lively colors, from white, pink, salmon, scarlet red, purple. Its flowering time is from autumn to spring. Its fruits are capsules that mature between 4 to 5 months to mature.

It enters a dormant state during the summer seasons due to its warm temperature and low ambient humidity, it reactivates when temperatures drop and the rains begin. If well maintained, the Persian Violet can live for several years. It is propagated during all seasons of the year. The specimens of Violeta de Persia are marketed between the months of October to February.

Variety

Among the varieties or varietal types there are several that can be found in nurseries and greenhouses, among the different classifications are: Type "Pastel" that was created in Germany, France and Belgium, quite important in the trade. Other varieties are "Johan Strauss" as well as "J. Brahms” in addition to other names of musicians. There are the classic or well-known varieties with large flowers. In this type are the so-called “Aaalsmeer” with the series “Rosa de Zalendorf”, “Harlequin”; “Sylphire”, “Cardinal” and others.

Apart from these varieties, the following hybrids also stand out: F1 Hybrids, with different lines of each group of seeds: «Firmament», «Virgo», «Concerto», «Carmen», «Pastourelle», «Rosamunde, and others. Miniature type, with increasing importance: «Syrius», «Willie», «Brigitte», «Collete», «Anglia». “Rococo” type, which was widely planted 20 years ago.

Plague and Diseases

These plants are very sensitive to diseases caused by fungi that can damage the Persian Violets, even before they are born or even after the crops are established, it is suggested to carry out agricultural practices such as disinfection of the substrate, monitoring of irrigation and doses of fertilizers, especially during the colder months, among others. The potential diseases and pests that attack them are described below.

Diseases

Gray rot: Among the diseases that the Persian Violet can suffer, Botrytis is known, a disease that is produced by a fungus called Botrytis cinerea. The symptoms are the development of an ashy-colored mold, which is observed on the petioles of its leaves and on the peduncles of the flowers, with similar spots of ashy appearance that can be seen on the flower petals. To prevent the Persian Violet plants from getting sick from the Botrytis cinerea, it is suggested to avoid wetting the plant when they are watering. Eliminate the leaves where the ashen spots caused by the fungus are observed. Apply fungicide sprays.

After germination, the seeds can be damaged by Phythium debaryanum Hesse and the Rhizoctonia solani Kühn affecting seedlings rotting and withering a few days after germination. The treatment of these fungi is preventive, through the sterilization of the soil or other substrate.

The mushroom Thielaviopsis basicola Berk causes the disease "root rot", the symptoms of this disease are wilting and chlorosis of the leaves, at the same time that the plant stops growing as a result of the damage caused to the root. The preventive treatment for this disease is the disinfection of the substrate, being aware of not flooding the substrate or soil, or applying too much fertilizer, lowering the frequency of irrigation, especially during autumn and winter.

Rhizome rot: It is caused by the fungus Fusarium oxysporum Schel, the symptoms are chlorosis of the foliar organs and even cause the death of the Persian Violet. To avoid this disease, preventive control must be carried out, it is suggested to disinfect the substrate, disincorporate sick Persian Violet plants and periodically clean weeds and sick plants.

Rot of roots, rhizomes and petioles: This disease is caused by a fungus called Cylindrocarpon radicicola Wr. It is possible that the fungus appears due to poor agricultural practices such as abundant and frequent watering, poor drainage, fertilization with a lot of nitrogen and others.

Pests

Persian Violets can be affected by mites such as the Stenotarsonemus pallidus, this mite attacks causing a wrinkled appearance to the leaves and flowers. In addition to this mite, Persian Violets are also attacked by spider mites, aphids and thrips. To avoid their attacks, it is suggested to carry out preventive treatment and apply acaricides and insecticides during the preparation of the substrate and maintenance of the plants.

Thrips Attacks: The bites cause the leaves to turn reddish and damaged by the bites of the Trips, which are noticeable by the large number of black dots, which has been the droppings of these insects. Its control is by insecticide.

Attack by Weevils Otirrhynchus rugosostriatus: This is a small beetle that damages leaves by biting at their edges. When they reach their adult stage they are black or dark brown, their size is a few millimeters long. The larvae of this beetle live under the ground and feed on the roots, corroding them and also the bulbs of the Persian Violets.  To control its attack when observing the gnawed leaves, it is suggested to apply an insecticide such as "malathion" or another phosphorous. The application and dose is carried out according to what is indicated on the insecticide label.

caterpillar attack: They are caterpillars of plusia sp., as well as other caterpillars or larvae, its control must be carried out in the juvenile phase when they are very small, this is done by spraying the plants with a product such as "Lindano". Gray or donut worms eat away at the stem of Persian Violets at collar level, near the soil surface. It is suggested to place baits to combat them. Other damages are caused by nematodes of the Meloidogyne genus. For these, nematicide must be applied to the soil and disinfectant treatment of the soil must be carried out.

Physiological Disorders

Excess watering should be avoided because it can happen that when flowering the flower stems soften and it usually happens due to waterlogged soil due to drainage deficiency. It can also happen that the stems turn yellow or the stems rot shortly after the plants are purchased, this happens because when buying the flowering plants in the autumn or winter season, in a greenhouse at room temperature and when it is taken to houses are warmer due to heating, the plant is affected and is observed by the chlorosis of the leaves.

To avoid this, the plants should first be acclimatized at home, placed near windows and days later, if desired, in a slightly warmer place. Likewise, to prevent its flowers and leaves from rotting, it is suggested to irrigate by capillarity. That is, water is placed in a plate and the pot is placed on it for approximately 10 minutes, so that the roots absorb the water by capillarity as the soil moistens, and then the plate is removed.

This is done when you notice dry land. Water twice a week while it is vegetative and during the summer season because it is in dormancy, it is watered very little. You can also grow the Persian Violet in the garden, since it resists temperatures down to -5°C, although it has to be protected from the sun's rays, especially during the hours of greatest light intensity of the day.

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