The story of ancient China is not told only through its emperors, wars and technological advances: it is also embroidered in silk, dyed in symbolic colors and sewn with centuries of tradition.. The clothing of the different Chinese dynasties was much more than a simple set of garments: it was a reflection of philosophical thought, social structure, spirituality, and national identity. To delve deeper into the culture, you can explore more about the cultural interaction between East and West.
From imperial robes to regional ceremonial costumes, each piece told a unique story about its wearer.In a deeply hierarchical country heavily influenced by Confucianism and Taoism, clothing was not a luxury but a symbolic and representative necessity. Over the centuries, Chinese fashion evolved in design, materials, and purpose, adapting to political, cultural, and aesthetic changes.
Origins and foundations of traditional Chinese clothing
Fashion in ancient China has roots dating back more than 3000 years.One of the longest-lived and most representative styles is the Hanfu, attributed even to the legendary Yellow Emperor. This garment, worn mostly by the elite, was made of silk—a material discovered, according to legend, by Leizu, wife of the Yellow Emperor—and consisted of two parts: the yi (a knee-length wraparound tunic) and the chang (skirt or narrow ankle-length trousers). If you want to know more about current clothing, you can visit the article on the clothing of China.
During the Shang Dynasty, intense dyes such as greens or primary tones were already used., although limited by the techniques of the time. In those early centuries, clothing was both an aesthetic and spiritual expression. According to Taoism and Chinese cosmology, colors and shapes held specific meanings. For example, in the Qin Dynasty, black became the color of power because it symbolized water within the theory of the five elements.
Access to certain colors and accessories was limited according to social status.While the emperor could wear hats decorated with jade, officials made do with bronze ornaments. This visual differentiation was key to maintaining the strict social hierarchy of imperial China.
Hanfu and its evolution through the dynasties
Hanfu was not just a passing fad: it continued with variations throughout multiple dynasties.Each period imbued its style into this garment, which has been able to adapt and withstand centuries of change.
- Han Dynasty (206 BC-220 AD): Here, Hanfu was consolidated as a national icon. Men and women wore similar designs, differentiated by color and materials. Wide sleeves, multi-layered wraps, and dark colors, especially black and red, became popular.
- Tang Dynasty (618-907): Considered a golden age, it ushered in the most colorful and daring fashions. Women wore open collars that revealed their cleavage, flowing skirts with geometric patterns, and heavy makeup, while men adopted formal tunics with rounded collars and leather boots. The cultural influence of the Silk Road brought new fabrics and dyes.
- Song Dynasty (960-1279): Many Tang trends were revived, adapting them more soberly. Garments such as the beizi (light cloak) appeared, and classic colors like red predominated for emperors and officials. Embroidery with flowers such as peonies and lilies was common.
- Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368): With the Mongols in power, garments such as the zhisunfu, similar to the shenyi but shorter, were adopted. Colors such as white, blue, and reddish brown were preferred. The style began to become visually simplified.
- Ming Dynasty (1368-1644): This period marked a return to Han refinement. Women's fashion embraced narrow sleeves and wrap blouses. Pleated skirts gained prominence, and a specific, highly beautiful cape became popular, a hallmark of the period.
- Qing Dynasty (1644-1912): Ruled by the Manchus, it brought about a drastic change. The "tifayifu" policy was imposed, forcing Han Chinese to change their clothing and hairstyles to adopt the Manchu aesthetic. Hanfu was officially banned and replaced by garments such as the qipao and the changshan. Men were required to shave their foreheads and wear a long braid (the famous "queue").
Representative models: Qipao, Hanfu, Changshan and more
In addition to Hanfu, traditional Chinese fashion has three other fundamental models: the Qipao, the Changshan and the Shenyi.Each one reflects a specific historical period and a special use, from ceremonies to everyday life.
- Qipao (also known as Cheongsam): It emerged during the Qing Dynasty and was worn by Manchu women. It was a long, straight tunic with a high collar and slits on the sides. Over the centuries, especially after 1920, it was adapted to Western standards, becoming more form-fitting, shorter, and using new materials such as wool, velvet, and synthetic fabrics.
- Changshan: A male outfit consisting of trousers and a tangzhuang jacket, worn primarily at weddings, New Year's, and funerals. It was adopted after the fall of the Qing Dynasty as a symbol of identity that has been reused to this day.
- Shenyi: Used between the 14th and 17th centuries. Made from ramie, an Asian plant, it was notable for its sash and wide sleeves. It symbolized the calendar through panels alluding to the seasons and months of the year. It was typical of the Ming Dynasty.
- Pien-fu: The ceremonial uniform par excellence during the Han Dynasty, consisting of a knee-length tunic and ankle-length trousers, accompanied by a hat and decorative belt.
Traditional fashion in ethnic minorities
China officially has 56 recognized ethnic groups, each with its own style of dress.In many rural areas, these clothes are still worn daily, reflecting centuries-old traditions.
- Dai: Clothing inspired by Southeast Asia. Women wear long, tight skirts and fitted shirts, while men wear collarless jackets with comfortable trousers.
- Tibetans: They must adapt to the extreme climate. They wear fur or wool capes that can be easily tied around the waist. The women adorn their hairstyles with silver, coral, and turquoise jewelry.
- Uighurs: Influenced by Islam and the Silk Road, women wear dresses of embroidered silk in shades of red and gold, while men wear caftans with thick coats ('chapan') and traditional 'doppa' hats.
- Zhuang: The costumes are usually dark blue, with clothing made using self-made techniques of spinning and embroidery. Women wear collarless jackets and headscarves, while men wear simple suits and turbans.
Costumes in Beijing Opera: Art on Stage
Beyond everyday use, Chinese fashion reached its highest artistic expression in the costumes of the Beijing Opera.This type of clothing, called 'xingtou' or 'juzhuang', fuses elements from different dynasties to create striking outfits, hand-embroidered with gold, silver, and multi-colored threads.
Every color, design and embellishment has a dramatic intentionThe python robe, for example, represents imperial power. The formal attire of civil officials displays their rank through embroidered details on the front. The stylized armor (kao) of generals reinforces their strength and authority on stage. Even minor characters have specific costumes like the xuezi, a versatile robe worn in a variety of colors to reflect personalities and social roles.
After decades of cultural repression, especially during the Cultural Revolution in the 20th century, the traditional was marginalizedHowever, since the 2000s, there has been a growing social movement driven by young people seeking to reconnect with their former identity.
Today, platforms like Weibo and Douyin (Chinese TikTok) have billions of views on Hanfu.Events such as "National Hanfu Day" and government initiatives support their promotion. It's not uncommon to see teenagers in large cities strolling around in Hanfu while sipping bubble tea or attending cosplay events in these historical garments.
This revival isn't limited to China. In places like Malaysia, Korea, Spain, and France, Hanfu has been featured in exhibitions, runways, and cultural controversies. Brands like Dolce & Gabbana have launched collections inspired by it, and international designers have integrated it. elements of Chinese fashion in their creations.
Furthermore, Hanfu has been the subject of academic studies, comparisons with European clothing, and articles in international fashion magazines. All of this demonstrates that more than just a garment, traditional clothing is today a living symbol of heritage and national pride.
The evolution of clothing in ancient China is a journey that transcends fashion to connect with the deepest values, customs, and thoughts of an ancient civilization. From the refined costumes of the Beijing Opera to the colorful attire of ethnic minorities, including the iconic Hanfu and the modern Qipao, all these garments have left an indelible mark. Thanks to the revival of these traditions, the past is back in fashion and confirms that history can also be worn.