If you're looking to get away from the typical tourist routes and the hustle and bustle of Rome's historic center, there's a place that will leave you speechless. I'm referring to the EUR district, where the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana stands. This building, affectionately known as the Square Colosseum , is a true architectural gem that completely breaks with the aesthetic of ancient ruins we usually associate with the Eternal City.
What makes this place special is its curious blend of grandeur and understated elegance. As you wander around, you realize it's not just a block of stone, but a distinctly rationalist style that transports you to another era. It's incredibly photogenic and, frankly, a must-see for anyone wanting to discover a less conventional but equally fascinating side of Rome.
The Origin and Shadow of Fascism
To understand why this building is the way it is, we have to look back. The palace was conceived as the centerpiece of a much more ambitious project: the creation of a new urban area in Rome to host the 1942 World's Fair . It was a project directly driven by the regime of Benito Mussolini, who wanted to leave an indelible mark of his power.
The dictator was obsessed with linking his rule to the glory of the ancient Roman Empire, so it is no coincidence that the design seeks to imitate the Flavian Amphitheater. The building was the work of three architects: Giovanni Guerrini, Ernesto La Padula, and Mario Romano , who used concrete and travertine to achieve that appearance of solidity and symmetry so characteristic of Fascist architecture.
Architecture and numerical symbolism
The building presents itself as an imposing tower with four identical facades, each replete with arches. If you count them, you'll see a total of 218 arches distributed around the perimeter. The most curious thing is that the structure is divided into 6 rows of 9 arches on each side, and it's said that these numbers aren't random, but rather refer to the letters in the names of Benito (6) and Mussolini (9).
The visual impact is striking, especially since the building isn't at ground level, but sits atop a travertine and concrete plateau . To reach the entrance, you have to climb a staircase that accentuates its height, which is nearly 70 meters, giving it an air of superiority and dominance over the EUR district landscape.
A tribute to Italian ingenuity
If you look at the bottom, right at the first row of arches that serve as the entrance, you'll notice a statue beneath each one. These figures aren't just there for decoration; each sculpture represents an art, science, or skill that humankind is capable of mastering. It's essentially a display of national pride, paying tribute to Italian talent throughout the centuries.
Furthermore, to complete the composition, four guardian sculptures stand at the ends of the staircases leading to the building . These pieces mark the boundaries of the palace and act as sentinels for this monument, which, despite its controversial origins, is admired for its geometric perfection.
From propaganda to haute couture
After the fall of fascism and the end of World War II, the EUR district was marked by its past. However, Rome managed to turn things around and transformed the area into a top-tier residential and administrative center , which today is one of the most sought-after and best-connected areas of the capital thanks to the metro.
The Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana also had to reinvent itself. For decades it functioned as a space dedicated to cultural exhibitions and displays , maintaining its public purpose. However, in 2015 the building underwent a surprising transformation when the fashion house Fendi reached an agreement with the city council to establish its corporate headquarters on the upper floors.
This temporary lease agreement lasts 15 years and has an annual cost of 2,8 million euros . Although Fendi occupies most of the building, the ground floor remains open to the public for cultural events, allowing visitors to continue enjoying the majesty of its arches.
Visiting this corner of Rome is an amazing experience, as it allows you to appreciate how a building born from political propaganda has ended up becoming an icon of fashion and contemporary culture , maintaining its imposing architectural presence intact in the heart of the EUR district.
