If you venture a little further from the hustle and bustle of Rome's historic center, you'll stumble upon a gem that defies all expectations: the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana. Many affectionately call it the Square Colosseum , and with good reason, as its monumental structure leaves anyone who sees it for the first time in the EUR district speechless. It's a place where rationalist design meets the ambition of a bygone era, creating a fascinating contrast with the ancient ruins that usually dominate any visit to the Italian capital.
This building isn't just a pretty face for Instagram photos; it's a silent witness to Italy's political history. It was designed as the centerpiece of a 1942 World's Fair that, sadly, never took place due to the outbreak of World War II. Even so, construction was completed in 43, establishing itself as one of the finest examples of Fascist architecture and defining the aesthetic of an entire neighborhood born under Mussolini's rule.
A design full of symbolism and ambition
The resemblance to the Flavian Amphitheater is no coincidence. Benito Mussolini wanted his rule to be seen as the resurrection of the Roman Empire , so he tried to link every new project to the glory of the emperors. The design, by architects Giovanni Guerrini, Ernesto La Padula, and Mario Romano, is essentially a direct homage to the Colosseum , but reinterpreted according to the principles of symmetry and solidity.
If you look closely at the facade, you'll see that the building is a perfect cube clad in travertine marble and concrete . The structure has a total of 218 arches distributed across its four sides. The most curious feature is that there are six rows of nine arches each; it is said that these numbers were deliberately chosen to correspond to the number of letters in the names of Benito (6) and Mussolini (9).
To further enhance its presence, the building sits atop a raised plinth or platform , making its nearly 70 meters of height feel even more imposing. To access this travertine "loft," one must ascend a staircase flanked at either end by four sculptures that mark the entrance to the palace.
A tribute to Italian talent and industry
On the ground floor, the experience becomes more detailed. Beneath each of the arches in the first row stands a Ferrara marble statue . These figures, which measure approximately 3,4 meters, represent various arts, sciences, and skills mastered by humankind. It is, in essence, a tribute to Italian ingenuity and the capacity of Italy's citizens to excel in any professional or creative field.
Although the building appears as a solid block from the outside, the interior has adapted to the times. While the exterior is pure rationalism, the recessed glass enclosures allow light to enter the offices and meeting rooms, softening the starkness of the marble.
From the fascist regime to haute couture
After the fall of fascism, the EUR district was viewed with suspicion, and some even suggested demolishing the monuments that commemorated the regime. However, Rome decided to be pragmatic and repurpose the area, transforming it into an administrative and residential district that is now one of the most sought-after in the city and a key economic driver.
The Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana followed a similar path. For decades it was used to host cultural events and art exhibitions aimed at promoting the "made in Italy" label. This function continues today, but only on the ground floor, which remains open to the public to foster the country's cultural identity.
The most striking aspect of its current state is that, since 2015, the renowned fashion house Fendi has converted the rest of the building into its corporate headquarters. To achieve this, the brand reached an agreement with the City of Rome for a 15-year lease, paying the impressive sum of €2,8 million annually for the privilege of occupying this architectural icon.
Exploring the surroundings: The EUR district
Visiting the Colosseum Square is the perfect excuse to stroll through the E.42 district. It's an area that feels distinct from the rest of Rome, more open and modern, efficiently connected by the metro line originally opened for the 1960 Olympic Games. The neighborhood has become the city's financial center and continues to evolve with works by renowned architects.
Besides the Fendi headquarters, the surrounding area boasts contemporary gems such as Fuksas's "The Cloud" convention center , Renzo Piano's renovation, and the imposing Eurosky Tower. It's a place where the ambition of the past coexists with the avant-garde of the present, making for a truly delightful stroll.
