The Hakone Shrine on Lake Ashi is one of those corners of Japan where nature, legends of dragons, samurai, and picture-postcard landscapes blend together with Mount Fuji in the background . Imagine a dense forest of ancient cedars, a lake formed in a volcanic caldera, pirate ships sailing its waters, and, standing out on the shore, a large vermilion torii gate practically floating on the water: that image is what has made this place so famous throughout the world.
Besides being a highly photogenic spot, Hakone Shrine (also known as Hakone Gongen) is an important Shinto shrine with over 1.200 years of history, closely linked to the samurai class, protection on journeys, good fortune in battle, and, nowadays, to everyday wishes such as a safe childbirth or finding a partner. All of this is located within the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park , a short distance from Tokyo and perfectly connected by trains, buses, cable cars, and lake cruises.
What is the Hakone Shrine and where is it located?
Hakone Shrine is a Shinto shrine located in the Moto-Hakone area, on the southern shore of Lake Ashi, in Hakone (Kanagawa Prefecture). It is nestled into the forested slopes of Mount Hakone and forms part of the volcanic caldera environment, now protected within Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park.
This shrine was officially founded in 757 AD , during the Nara period, on a site already venerated by ancient mountain deities. Its origins are closely linked to the monk Mangan Shonin, considered its founder, and to a group of protective deities known as the Hakone Okami , associated with the nearby mountains.
The function of the shrine has changed over time: it evolved from a place of worship for mountain ascetics and pilgrims to, since the samurai era, a true "power spot" for praying for victory in war, good fortune, and protection on journeys. Today, in addition to remaining a place of faith, it is an essential stop on any Hakone itinerary thanks to its natural surroundings, its torii gates, and its history.
Although we usually associate it with the image of the red gate in the water, the sanctuary complex is quite extensive: it includes forest paths, several torii gates , a main hall, secondary sanctuaries, sacred trees, special purification fountains, and even a small museum where treasures and historical pieces are preserved.
The main access for visitors is usually from the Moto-Hakone tourist boat pier, about a five-minute walk away, following the vermilion torii gates that mark the way between cafes, traditional shops and the forest.
The Legend of the Dragon of Lake Ashi
One of the most famous stories associated with this place is that of Kuzuryu, the nine-headed dragon that lived in the depths of Lake Ashi. Legend says that this creature terrorized the surrounding villages, causing brutal storms and demanding the annual sacrifice of a young woman as tribute.
The inhabitants of the area, completely overwhelmed by the situation, lived in constant fear until the Buddhist monk Mangan Shonin appeared. Known for his virtue and spiritual powers, he heard the people's pleas and decided to confront the dragon to end their suffering.
After days of intense prayer and sutra recitation , Mangan entered the lake and managed to subdue Kuzuryu. According to legend, he tied the dragon to a large tree at the bottom of the lake and transformed it into a protective deity , turning it from a threat into a guardian of the place.
Therefore, many of the shrine's offerings and amulets feature the image of a dragon. On omamori (cloth amulets) or ema wooden tablets, you will see dragon motifs related to Kuzuryu, recalling this ancient story and his role as protector of Lake Ashi.
The dragon cult remains alive today in various parts of the sanctuary, especially at the Kuzuryu Shingu shrine and the nine-headed purification fountain, where people come seeking to cleanse their bad luck, attract fortune, or improve their personal relationships.
History of the shrine: from the samurai to modern Japan
From the Kamakura period (1185-1333), the Hakone Shrine became a key place of devotion for samurai . The figure who most boosted its fame was Minamoto no Yoritomo , founder of the Kamakura shogunate and one of the most influential figures in Japanese history.
After suffering defeat at the Battle of Ishibashiyama, Yoritomo sought refuge in Hakone, where he prayed for victory and the restoration of his destiny. Having ultimately prevailed in the Genpei Wars and established his rule, he returned to the shrine as a devoted benefactor. This connection with Yoritomo solidified Hakone Shrine's reputation as a place to turn one's fortunes and achieve triumph in times of need.
For centuries, other powerful military clans followed suit. The shrine was venerated by figures such as the Hojo clan and, later, by great warlords of the Sengoku period, including Tokugawa Ieyasu. However, it also suffered dark times: it was destroyed by the forces of Toyotomi Hideyoshi during the siege of Odawara in the 16th century.
The final reconstruction came in 1667, when the Tokugawa clan ordered the construction of the current complex on the shores of the lake. The new location reinforced its role as the region's main shrine, now perfectly integrated into the landscape of Lake Ashi and the surrounding mountains.
In more recent times, the shrine has continued to adapt. The current main building is a 1936 reconstruction, built in the 20th century after repeated fires. The famous gate in the water, the Heiwa torii or “peace torii,” was erected in 1952 to commemorate the signing of the Treaty of San Francisco after World War II, with the word “peace” calligraphed by Prime Minister Shigeru Yoshida.
Walking route through the Hakone sanctuary: torii, forest and lake
A typical visit to the Hakone Shrine can easily be done in about an hour , walking at a leisurely pace and stopping at the most interesting spots. The most convenient way to start is from the Moto-Hakone tourist boat pier, following the path marked by the large vermilion torii gates.
The first gate stands very close to the pier, next to a group of small statues known as Sainokawara . It was rebuilt in 1993 to celebrate the marriage of the then Crown Prince (now Emperor). On a clear day, you can already enjoy views of Mount Komagatake and the area where Okumiya Shrine is located from here.
The second torii gate appears a few minutes further on, at the point where Jinja-dori shopping street gradually transitions into nature. Nearby are several parking areas and a small red-painted bridge, known as the "drum bridge," as well as a modern naval warehouse, both also built in 1993.
A third torii gate marks the true entrance to the grounds, leading to a level stone path lined with ancient cedars . The atmosphere changes completely: you leave behind the block of restaurants and shops and enter a quiet, shaded walkway, very pleasant even in the height of summer.
The fourth torii stands at the foot of the stone steps leading up to the main sanctuary complex, roughly aligned between the famous Lake Peace Torii and the sacred buildings on the hillside. A fifth torii crowns the top of the steps, just before entering the main plaza.
Jinja-dori Street and monzen-machi atmosphere
Before venturing deeper into the forest, it's worth taking in the atmosphere of Jinja-dori Street , literally "shrine street." It's a typical monzen-machi , one of those commercial streets that historically grew up around temples and shrines to serve pilgrims.
Today, Jinja-dori is lined with restaurants, cafes, and shops of all kinds: from local sweets to torii-shaped souvenirs, amulets, heart-shaped kashiwa mochi, and typical Hakone region products. It's almost impossible to walk by without grabbing a bite to eat or buying a souvenir.
The street serves as a perfect transition between Lake Ashi and the religious surroundings: within a few steps you have the docks for tourist boats, the start of hiking trails and access to the cable cars that connect the different areas of Hakone, so there is usually quite a lot of activity from day-trippers.
If you have time, it can be a good place to stop for a coffee, try specialties like Hakone soba or sample local sweets before getting "in spiritual mode" and venturing into the shrine.
Temizuya, stairs and the peace torii at Lake Ashi
At the end of the initial section of the forest, just before the fourth torii gate, you'll find the temizuya , the classic ablution fountain where the Shinto purification ritual takes place. It's the ideal spot to wash your hands and mouth, following local custom, before approaching the deities.
At this point, the path splits in two: if you descend the stairs to the left, you will reach the famous Torii of Peace , the large vermilion gate that rises directly above the waters of Lake Ashi. If, instead, you take the stairs to the right, you will begin the ascent to the central shrine complex, among enormous cedars that seem straight out of a movie.
The Heiwa torii has become one of the most photographed spots in Hakone. It was erected in 1952 to commemorate the emperor's enthronement and the signing of the peace treaty following World War II. Later, in 1964, a plaque bearing the word "peace" was placed on it, coinciding with the 1.200th anniversary of the shrine's founding and the Tokyo Olympic Games.
Its image, with the red structure emerging from the water, Mount Fuji in the background on clear days, and mist enveloping the lake, has an almost mystical air . It's not uncommon to see long lines of people waiting their turn to take photos under the gate, so if you want to avoid waiting, it's best to go first thing in the morning or on less busy days.
At certain times, for safety or health reasons, access directly under the torii may be restricted, in which case you can only photograph it from the shore or from tourist boats crossing the lake.
Sacred trees, mikoshi and gods of fortune
Back at the foot of the steep stairs leading up to the heart of the shrine, you'll see one of the most important trees in the area: the Yatate-sugi , known as the "arrow cedar." You'll recognize it by the sacred shimenawa rope that encircles its trunk.
The history of this cedar is linked to ancient warriors. It is said that in 801 AD, General Sakanoue no Tamuramaro stopped here to pray before a military campaign and shot arrows at the tree as an offering. Over time, other samurai followed this custom, the most famous being Minamoto no Yoritomo, who also shot arrows at the cedar, praying for victory and a change of fortune.
Since, according to tradition, Yoritomo's wishes were fulfilled and he succeeded in becoming shogun, the Yatate-sugi became a symbol of triumph, the fulfillment of desires ( shogan-joju ), and good fortune in important challenges. Today, it remains a key symbol for those seeking to overcome personal or professional obstacles.
Nearby is a small warehouse for mikoshi , the portable shrines used in processions of deities during festivals ( matsuri ). If you approach, you can see some of these mikoshi up close, which are used, for example, in the large summer festival at Lake Ashi.
To facilitate access, the site also has an alternative route without stairs for people with reduced mobility and an elevator next to the treasure room, which can be reached from parking lot no. 3, something that is not always common in mountain sanctuaries.
Shichifukujin, Kekera Tree and Soga Shrine
As you ascend the long staircase toward the main hall, on the left you will find a series of small pavilions dedicated to the Shichifukujin , the seven gods of good fortune. Although these deities are traditionally associated with Buddhist temples, their presence in a Shinto shrine reflects Japan's deep religious syncretism.
Historically, Hakone has been a center of mountain worship, closely linked to the practice of Shugendo , a tradition of ascetics who venerate mountain peaks as sacred places. It is therefore not surprising that local Shinto deities, folk gods like the Shichifukujin, and beliefs from various spiritual traditions blend seamlessly here.
Along this same stretch of the hillside stands a large trunk known as the Kekera tree of Lake Ashi . It is believed to have belonged to one of the trees that lay at the bottom of the lake and was brought to the surface by a typhoon just after a local festival, giving it a reputation as an object imbued with spiritual power.
Popular tradition has linked it to the tree to which the monk Mangan , in the legend, would have tied the nine-headed dragon Kuzuryu to prevent it from causing havoc again, which reinforces the connection between the shrine, the lake and the deified dragon.
A little further up you'll find the small Soga Shrine , dedicated to the spirits of the Soga brothers, protagonists of one of Japan's great revenge stories, recounted in the Soga Monogatari and depicted in Noh and Kabuki plays . The story tells how, after their father was murdered on the orders of a relative, the brothers were raised with the sole purpose of revenge, which they finally achieved in 1193.
Ryujin Suisha, Kuzuryu Shingu and the cedar of safe childbirth
Upon reaching the top of the stairs and passing through the fifth torii gate, you will arrive at the central plaza of the Hakone Shrine. Before heading to the main hall, you will see a very special purification fountain: the Ryujin Suisha , the "Dragon God Fountain."
This temizu is formed by nine dragon heads from which water flows from a sacred natural spring, a direct nod to Kuzuryu. Many visitors consider it a true "power spot" within the shrine, and it is believed that the water from this spring helps to dispel bad luck and attract prosperity, especially regarding relationships and financial stability.
Directly opposite is the Kuzuryu Shingu shrine , dedicated to the dragon Kuzuryu Okami. This pavilion serves as a branch shrine to the original, the Hongu, which is located in a remote forest on the shores of Lake Ashi and is reached after a much longer and more demanding hike.
The Shingu was built specifically to bring dragon worship closer to most visitors, allowing them to pay their respects without having to travel to the Hongu. It is especially popular among those seeking good fortune in love and personal relationships, and is one of Hakone's most prominent spots for enmusubi (the practice of divining dragons ).
Nearby you'll see another impressive sacred tree, the Ansan-sugi cedar , known as the "cedar of safe childbirth." Over a thousand years old, its roots have long been interpreted as a symbol of a healthy womb, and people pray to it for fertility, uncomplicated pregnancies, and healthy offspring.
Entrance door, main hall and amulets of the sanctuary
After purifying yourself at the Ryujin Suisha and, if you wish, praying at the Kuzuryu Shingu or before the cedar of safe childbirth, it's time to pass under the entrance gate that leads to the most sacred area of the complex. This portico marks the entrance to the area where the main hall of the Hakone Shrine is located.
In the side buildings, you can buy all kinds of omamori and amulets. The variety here is enormous: protection while traveling, success in studies, health, love, good luck in business, victory in sports or work… One of the most popular is the Kachi-omamori , which invokes the power of the arrow cedar (Yatate-sugi) and is especially intended for those who want to overcome significant obstacles.
The main hall, or honden , along with the prayer hall, forms the spiritual heart of the shrine. Its architecture is in the Gongen-zukuri style , characteristic of some shrines historically linked to Buddhist temples, with intricate wood carvings and a highly ornate copper roof.
In this space, the three great protective gods of Hakone are venerated, collectively called Hakone Okami : Ninigi-no-Mikoto (grandson of the sun goddess Amaterasu), his wife Konohanasakuya-hime (deity associated with Mount Fuji and childbirth) and his son Hoori-no-Mikoto, mythical ancestor of the first Japanese emperors.
Next to the main hall is the small Komagata shrine , dedicated to the deities of Mount Komagatake (Komagata Gongen) and Mount Kanmurigatake. For the ancient mountain ascetics, these peaks were sacred places where the gods descended, hence their presence in the complex.
Mototsumiya: the ancient shrine on the summit of Mount Komagatake
Although today we identify the Hakone shrine with the lake shore, its original site was on the summit of Mount Komagatake , one of the central peaks of the volcanic caldera. There stood the Mototsumiya, literally "original shrine."
For the ancient believers, the mountain itself was an object of worship : a place where deities descended and manifested themselves. That is why, for centuries, pilgrims climbed on foot to this summit to pay homage to the mountain deities in their natural domain.
You can currently reach Mototsumiya using the Komagatake Ropeway , which ascends from the lake area and offers spectacular views of Mount Fuji, Lake Ashi, and the entire volcanic landscape of Hakone. If you enjoy hiking, there are also mountain trails for walking the route.
Visiting this summit sanctuary provides a much more complete understanding of the spiritual significance of Hakone, as it connects the current lake complex with its origins as a high-altitude pilgrimage site.
On days with good visibility, the experience of contemplating Mount Fuji from the top of Komagatake, with Lake Ashi at your feet and the peace torii silhouetted on the shore, is hard to forget.
Shrine Museum and Festivals at Lake Ashi
Within the shrine grounds is a small Homotsu-den , or treasure hall, where statues, frescoes, and artifacts related to the history of Hakone Shrine and its founder, Mangan, are displayed. Some of these items are listed as Nationally Important Cultural Properties.
The treasure room is usually open from 9:00 AM to 16:30 PM and has a small entrance fee (paid for adults and students, while access to the rest of the shrine is free). If you're interested in religious history and Japanese art, it can be a very interesting visit; if you're not particularly interested, you might find the content a bit dense.
Throughout the year, the shrine hosts numerous seasonal festivals and special events. One of the most striking is the Ashinoko Kosui Matsuri , held every July 31st, dedicated to the deified dragon of Lake Ashi, with water rituals, offerings, and fireworks.
In addition, during New Year's and summer, fireworks displays over the lake, special ceremonies, and processions with mikoshi (portable shrines) are common. It's worth checking the official Hakone Shrine website to see if any of these celebrations coincide with your visit, as they add a very interesting dimension to the experience.
The outdoor areas remain open 24 hours a day and can be entered freely, while the indoor areas (including the treasury room) have specific opening hours and, in some cases, maintenance days or occasional closures.
Hakone's surroundings: Lake Ashi, onsen, cable cars and pirate ships
Beyond the shrine itself, the Hakone area is one of the most popular nature destinations for Tokyo residents. It's a true green oasis just a short distance from the capital, with forests, hot springs, hiking trails, and a volcanic lake that is the star attraction.
Lake Ashi (Ashinoko) was formed in the caldera of an ancient volcano and is now surrounded by mountains covered in cedar and pine trees. Its calm waters are ideal for sightseeing cruises, kayaking, or, if you're looking for something more picturesque, sailing aboard the famous three-story pirate ships that cross the lake from one end to the other.
These boats, such as the Queen Ashinoko, the Royal 2, or the Victory, depart from the ports of Moto-Hakone and other points on the lake and offer privileged views of Mount Fuji (weather permitting), the surrounding forests, and, of course, the torii gate of the Hakone shrine seen from the water.
Hakone also boasts a network of cable cars and funiculars connecting places like Gora, Sounzan, Owakudani, and the lake area. The Hakone Ropeway soars over the steaming geothermal valley of Owakudani, known for its sulfurous fumaroles and the famous black eggs ( kuro tamago ) cooked in the hot springs.
In Gora, the terminus of the Hakonetozan line, you'll find Hakone Gora Park , a park with gardens, European-style fountains, a tea house, pottery and glass workshops, and pleasant terraces where you can relax. It's a great place to start or end your Hakone circuit at a leisurely pace.
Food and accommodation in Hakone
The Hakone region and the area around Lake Ashi offer a diverse cuisine, combining local specialties with classic Japanese dishes. Among the most typical dishes are shrimp tempura , Hakone soba noodles, Owakudani black eggs, and seafood from the lake itself and the nearby bay.
In the Moto-Hakone area and along Jinja-dori you will find many restaurants and cafes where you can try these specialties, as well as local sweets such as kashiwa mochi in more traditional versions or with modern and eye-catching shapes.
As for accommodation, Hakone is famous for its onsen ryokan , traditional Japanese-style inns with hot spring baths. For those on a budget, options like Emblem Flow Hakone, near Gora Station, offer everything from backpacker dorm rooms to spacious private rooms, with shared hot spring baths and generous breakfasts.
If you're looking for lake views, establishments like the Yama Odakyu Hotel offer hot springs with panoramic views of Lake Ashi and Mount Fuji, as well as facilities designed for multi-day stays enjoying the area at a leisurely pace.
Many travelers choose to combine a visit to the sanctuary, the cable car and boat tour, and a night in a ryokan to relax in hot springs after a full day of sightseeing and nature.
How to get to the Hakone Sanctuary and get around the area
The Hakone Shrine is located a short walk from Moto-Hakone Pier , on the southern shore of Lake Ashi. The path is well marked with vermilion torii gates, so you can't miss it.
From Hakone-Yumoto Station , the easiest way to get there is by taking bus H to the “Hakone Tozan Bus – Motohakone Information Center” stop (about 34 minutes) or bus K from the Sanmaibashi stop, next to the station, to “Moto-Hakoneko” (also about 34 minutes). Both routes are usually covered by the Hakone Free Pass.
The Hakone Free Pass is highly recommended if you plan to spend at least a full day in the area. It allows unlimited use of local trains, cable cars, funiculars, buses, and pirate boats within the Hakone area, and includes discounts at some museums and attractions, as well as free entry to Hakone Gora Park.
There are several ways to get to Hakone from Tokyo. You can use the JR network (often combining with a Shinkansen to Odawara), but many people prefer the Romancecar , a limited express train that departs from Shinjuku and goes directly to Hakone-Yumoto, offering comfortable seating and a more relaxed atmosphere, at a generally lower price than the bullet train.
If you still have energy left at the end of your excursion, you can stop in Odawara before heading back to the big city. There you'll find Odawara Castle, the closest fortress to Tokyo, with its white keep, historical exhibits of the local clan, traditional gates and bridges, and a lovely park, especially beautiful when the cherry blossoms or wisteria are in bloom.
Visiting the Hakone Shrine on Lake Ashi is, in the end, much more than just taking the typical photo under a torii gate floating on the water: it's about venturing into a forest steeped in stories of dragons, samurai, and mountain gods, strolling among ancient cedars, purifying yourself in a fountain with nine dragon heads, enjoying a volcanic lake crisscrossed by pirate ships, and ending the day in a relaxing onsen while Mount Fuji watches over you from afar; a perfect plan to disconnect from Tokyo and, at the same time, understand why this corner of Hakone has been captivating visitors for over twelve centuries.