The Cannes Film Festival has been established for decades as one of the most influential events in film and fashionEach edition transforms the Croisette into a global showcase where films are presented, but also trends are launched, alliances with luxury brands are announced, and styles are meticulously planned for the red carpet.
In recent years, however, the prominence of the outfits had reached such a level that the organizers have decided to rein it in. The festival has tightened its dress code for the gala screenings and access to the Grand Théâtre Lumièrewith a set of rules that have caught more than one celebrity and their styling teams off guard.
A stricter dress code: what's now prohibited in Cannes
The updated regulations of the French competition clearly state that Nudity is prohibited on the red carpet and in any other area of the festival for “reasons of decorum.” This includes both explicit nudity and extreme transparencies that leave certain parts of the body completely exposed.
In addition to excessively revealing dresses, the festival has set its sights on voluminous garments. The official text expressly prohibits them. Very voluminous outfits, especially those incorporating long trains or structures that hinder circulation of the guests and complicate the distribution of seats in the theater.
The standard also applies to footwear and accessories: Sneakers, backpacks, oversized bags, and certain casual accessories are banned. for evening galas. Evening attire is required: a long dress or tuxedo, although cocktail dresses, dark trouser suits, or elegant blouses with black trousers are acceptable.
The organization emphasizes that festival staff are authorized to deny access to the red carpet to anyone who does not comply with these guidelinesIn other words, the dress code is not just a simple etiquette recommendation, but a real requirement for setting foot on the steps of the Palais des Festivals.
From naked dresses to the ban: why Cannes has changed course
To understand the shift, we have to look back. For years, the Cannes red carpet was fertile ground for the so-called naked dresses and the almost sculptural designs: total transparency, dizzying openings, feathers, XXL structures and kilometer-long tails designed to achieve the most viral photo.
Models and influencers like Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner or Cindy Kimberly They transformed the Croisette into a laboratory of extreme fashion. Saint Laurent's transparent dresses, metallic fabrics that revealed practically the entire body, and chiffons that pushed the boundaries of the rules became iconic images that graced magazine covers across Europe.
This climate of spectacularization culminated in looks that would clash head-on with today's new normsFrom historical designs like Milla Jovovich's Egyptian-inspired dress in 1997 or La Cicciolina's famous styling in 1988, to more recent choices like Leila Depina's sparkly chain dress or Heidi Klum's ultra-provocative designs in 2023.
The festival, aware that fashion was dominating the narrative more than film itself, has tried to restore a certain sobriety. According to the organizers, the new rules aim to Balancing glamour and functionality: to maintain the brilliance of the catwalk without the red carpet becoming a logistical obstacle or a parade of explicit nudity.
Immediate impact: last-minute dress changes and controversy among the stars
The stricter dress code hasn't remained just a theoretical issue. In practice, Several celebrities have had to correct their outfits against the clock., after months of planning with haute couture firms and stylists.
One of the most talked-about cases was that of Halle BerryThe actress was forced to discard the dress she had planned to wear because the train was deemed too long according to the new guidelines. At the last minute, she opted for a striped Jacquemus design that was more in line with the regulations, improvising on the spot despite it being one of the most anticipated appearances of the festival.
Nor did the pulse go unnoticed Heidi Klum to the newly introduced rules. The model arrived at the opening ceremony in a floral Elie Saab dress topped with a spectacular train, a choice that many interpreted as a direct challenge to the restrictions on excessive volume and length.
The new protocol has also affected those who have historically opted for very sensual proposals. Bella Hadid, self-proclaimed queen of CannesShe has had to adapt her style to a more controlled framework, moving from transparent naked dresses —like the famous Saint Laurent design that revealed the chest— to more minimalist, though equally studied, dresses.
These decisions have fueled debate in European media and social networks: To what extent can a festival that screens uncensored films restrict bodies on the red carpet? For some critics, the contrast between creative freedom on screen and control over clothing is, at the very least, paradoxical.
Demi Moore and the stars who push the boundaries of the dress code
With the latest edition already underway, some figures have shown that it is possible. to play on the edge of the rule without completely crossing itOne of the main protagonists is Demi Moore, a member of the official jury, whose wardrobe choices are being analyzed in detail from Europe and especially from the Spanish press, which is attentive to the notable national presence in the competition.
On the inaugural red carpet, the actress chose a long white sequined dress by JacquemusWithin the festival's required evening dress code. However, in her next appearance, Moore shifted towards greater drama with a custom-made mauve Gucci design that pushed the boundaries of what was possible.
The look played with sheer fabric on the arms and part of the skirt, off-the-shoulder neckline and a pronounced side slitIn addition to incorporating a flowing train that moved in the wind, the piece, made of draped chiffon, hugged the silhouette without being completely nude, but it did flirt with that ambiguous territory that the regulations seek to define.
She completed the look with matching salons, Chopard diamond earrings, and long, wet-look hair.The outfit became one of the most talked-about style moments of the edition, precisely because it was so close to the red line set by the organization.
On that same day, other guests opted for a controlled elegance that fits with the spirit of the new dress code. The model Sara Sampaio She appeared in a white dress with a scale effect and tulip skirt, with an architectural but reasonably restrained silhouette, while Gillian Anderson She opted for a white Miu Miu design with double straps, a V-neck and pearl details, understated but with a touch of sparkle very much on the red carpet.
The red carpet under strict rules: how the protocol is applied
Beyond specific cases, what's relevant is how the regulations are being applied in the day-to-day running of the festival. The official document states that formal attire is mandatory only for the evening galas at the Grand Théâtre LumièreAt these sessions, a high level of dress code is required, and access to the red carpet is carefully controlled.
For the rest of the screenings and events, the tone is more relaxed: "Appropriate attire" is requested without going into much detail about the requirements.This is where certain margins of interpretation open up, for example in the use of jeans or sneakers, which the regulations do not explicitly mention.
In fact, there have already been signs of rebellion. The appearance of Meadow Walker in Celine jeans and a blazer A photo shoot to mark the anniversary of the "Fast & Furious" saga has been interpreted as proof that, outside of evening galas, there is a bit more tolerance for informal codes.
Where there are no concessions is in the control of access to the red carpet: Host teams have been instructed to block anyone who violates the new rulesIn case of doubt, staff usually opt for the strictest interpretation, which puts additional pressure on stylists and fashion houses when designing for Cannes.
At the same time, the festival has introduced a small historical correction in the field of footwear: Now elegant shoes and sandals with or without heels are allowed., a significant change after years of controversy over the alleged obligation to wear high heels.
Heelgate, high heels and protests: the precedent for Kristen Stewart
The current tensions surrounding Cannes' dress code didn't arise out of nowhere. The festival has been grappling with this for some time. a history of controversies surrounding footwear and the rigidity of the dress codeOne of the most notorious episodes was the one known as "Heelgate" in 2015.
That year, A group of women were turned away from the entrance to the premiere of "Carol" for wearing flat shoesThis sparked a wave of criticism in Europe and opened a debate about sexism in red carpet protocols. The image of elegantly dressed women being stopped for not wearing heels went viral.
The most symbolic response came in 2018, when Kristen Stewart decided to take off her Louboutins while climbing the stairs of the Palais. and continue barefoot as a gesture of protest against that unwritten rule of mandatory heels.
That same year, the actress concluded her stance with loafers and a menswear-inspired Chanel suitShe emphasized in interviews that if men weren't required to wear heels, then women shouldn't be either. Her statements to publications like Vanity Fair became a touchstone for those advocating for a less discriminatory dress code.
As a result of those criticisms, the festival quietly updated its regulations, which now include Elegant shoes and sandals, both heeled and flat.However, the spirit of formality remains, and episodes like the flip-flops that Jennifer Lawrence inadvertently wore in 2023 — after discovering that her heels were too big — are still considered out of place.
Iconic looks that wouldn't pass the Cannes filter today
The new regulations leave in a kind of historical limbo Many of the styles that have made the festival's red carpet famousReviewing them helps to understand the extent to which the official criteria have changed.
Among the most cited examples is the Bella Hadid wore a sheer Saint Laurent dress to the premiere of "The Apprentice"In a sandy tone and with a completely translucent halter neckline that revealed her breasts through the fabric. A look celebrated at the time for its daring, but which would now clash head-on with the ban on nudity.
In the same line, the Leila Depina's silver naked dress in 2023, composed of tiny, shiny chains that left the body practically exposed, or the dress of transparent metallic fabric of Cindy KimberlyWith an open back and short tail, they would be hardly compatible today with the requirement to cover certain areas of the body.
The Cannes visual archive also preserves moments as extreme as the look of Cicciolina in 1988with the torso practically bare and only a few decorative elements covering the chest, or the memorable Egyptian design of Milla Jovovich in 1997, based on strategic embroidery rather than conventional fabric.
Even relatively recent elections, such as the Heidi Klum's yellow dress in 2023with cape-like sleeves, a crossover neckline and a plunging slit, or the completely transparent tulle model of Kendall Jenner in 2018They would be under very different scrutiny with the updated letter on the table.
Spain and Europe in the new era of the Cannes red carpet
From a European perspective, and especially from Spain, Cannes' dress code is experienced almost as an extension of the calendar of major red carpet events.Not only because of the presence of Spanish films and Argentine films not only for the competition, but also for the participation of actresses, models, and fashion designers from the continent.
On the recent fourth day of the 79th edition, for example, the premiere of the film 'Karma' by French director Guillaume Canet The steps of the Grand Théâtre Lumière have brought together names such as Marion Cotillard, Isabelle Huppert, Andie MacDowell and the Spaniard Luis Zahera, all adhering to the renewed protocol.
The evening has provided a varied sample of how the regulations are interpreted in a European context. Andie MacDowell She walked on the edge of the limit in a flowing, semi-transparent black Alberta Ferretti dress with an original double neckline, but carefully crafted to avoid crossing the line into total nudity.
French actress Isabelle Huppert She opted for a black Balenciaga trench coat transformed into a long dress with puffed sleeves, an exaggerated collar and a train, demonstrating that there is still room for dramatic silhouettes as long as The proportion and movement should not obstruct the carpet.
For its part, Marion Cotillard She opted for a piece from Chanel's cruise collection with a voluminous skirt finished in fringe and a bodice with thin straps, while the Spanish businesswoman and designer Gala González She paid homage to "made in Spain" fashion with a Sybilla design featuring a mermaid cut and an inner train in red, an obvious nod to the drama that has historically characterized our red carpets.
Less artifice and more classic elegance: the aesthetic shift of 2026
The new rules have coincided with a change in the way glamour is understood in CannesAfter several editions dominated by the desire for virality and designs conceived almost exclusively for social media, the 2026 edition aims for a more restrained aesthetic.
In practice, this translates into cleaner silhouettes, fluid fabrics and references to Hollywood of the 90s and early 2000sSlip dresses, modest necklines, and discreet jewelry are gaining ground over impossible volumes and looks that sought impact over elegance.
Many celebrities have opted for a more natural makeup look, with luminous skin, soft lips and less contouring...as well as polished hairstyles that complement the dress without stealing the show. The idea is no longer just to achieve a striking image, but to create a character consistent with the film, the brand, and the festival itself.
This more classic approach does not mean abandoning creative risk, but transferring it to other areas: cuts, intelligent patterns, draping and mixing of texturesThe spectacular nature remains, but it relies on more sophisticated and less obvious solutions than simply showing skin.
From a European perspective, this evolution fits well with the tradition of tailoring and designer fashion which travels through cities like Paris, Milan, Madrid or Barcelona, where elegance is measured as much by the finishes as by the ability to suggest without falling into literalness.
While the Cannes Film Festival attempts to regain some control over its own image through a increasingly detailed dress codeThe red carpet remains one of the best barometers for gauging the trends in luxury, creativity, and the tension between norm and transgression. Recent editions have demonstrated that, even with stricter rules, stars, designers, and the European public continue to find ways to keep alive the interplay between protocol, personal style, and the desire to leave an indelible mark on the Croisette.