The traditional clothing of the Aymara people is much more than simple clothing: It is the tangible manifestation of a cultural heritage that has survived through the centuries, with the strength of an identity that remains alive among the Andean mountains and plateaus. Since before the Spanish conquest, Aymara communities developed complex weaving techniques and created unique garments that not only protected from the weather but also conveyed their worldview, belonging, and social status.
Throughout history, Aymara clothing has undergone profound transformations, assimilating elements from the colonial period and adapting to contemporary contexts, but without losing the essence of its textile tradition and its community values. Today, clothing remains a distinctive feature that differentiates, identifies, and fills both Aymara men and women with pride, whether in daily life, at ceremonies, or at popular festivals.
A centuries-old textile tradition
La Textiles have been, and continue to be, one of the fundamental pillars of Aymara culture.From childhood, women in particular are taught the art of weaving, beginning with simple backstrap looms to make sashes and bags. With experience and time, they progress. towards more complex horizontal looms, cKnown for their use of four stakes, which allow for the production of larger and more sophisticated pieces.
The spinning and weaving process is completely artisanal.: A small wooden spindle is used to spin wool, which traditionally comes from South American camelids such as the llama and alpaca. These wools are usually used in their natural colors, reflecting the tones of the Andean fauna: white, black, brown, gray, and combinations of these. When sheep's wool is used, it is usually dyed. using pigments of plant and mineral origin, achieving a wide range of vibrant and representative colors.
The Designs on Aymara fabrics are not arbitraryEach motif and color has a meaning that reflects the local worldview and belonging to a specific community. Thus, a simple aguayo, sash, or blanket can tell stories or signal the wearer's social role within the group.
Traditional clothing and accessories: origin and evolution
Pre-Hispanic clothing
Before the arrival of the Spanish, the clothing of the Aymara was simple and functional, adapted to the climate and natural environment.Both men and women wore shirts made of camelid wool – a kind of tunic known as unku – fastened to the waist with woven belts. The usual footwear was the flip-flops, sturdy handmade sandals, perfect for walking long distances on rough terrain. Among the most common accessories were the chuspas (small bags where coca leaves and herbs were stored), woven conical hats – some with ear flaps – and necklaces made from natural materials.
Transformations after Spanish colonization
The colonial invasion brought with it the arrival of new garments and the modification of existing ones.The Spanish authorities, for example, imposed the use of trousers for men and mantillas on the shoulders of women, in addition to introducing various hat styles. Many of these pieces, far from disappearing after independence, were adapted and eventually integrated into festive and everyday attire. The most emblematic example is the bowler hat, which went from being a men's item of clothing in Europe to a symbol of Aymara femininity in the city of La Paz and elsewhere.
The role of weaving and artisanal manufacturing
Aymara women are guardians of the secrets of weaving, passing on techniques and knowledge from generation to generation.With very few tools, they manage to create pieces of surprising quality and detail, using ancestral motifs and adapting patterns to modern tastes. Men also play an active role, especially in rope production, bag making, and weaving accessories used in agricultural tasks.
Aymara women's clothing: history, parts and meaning
La Current Aymara women's clothing, especially in urban areas, is the result of multiple processes of cultural transformation and adaptation.The fusion of pre-Hispanic elements, colonial impositions, and contemporary trends has given rise to a range of distinctive garments brimming with personality.
Main components of women's attire
- El aksu: fundamental pre-Hispanic piece, the aksu It is a long cloth – black or brown – that wraps around the woman and is fastened to the shoulders with silver clasps known as topus. Today it persists especially in rural or ceremonial contexts.
- The skirt: A quintessential urban and modern symbol, the Aymara pollera derives from the Spanish skirts of the 18th and 19th centuries. It is a full skirt, generally made with several layers of fabric—from traditional wool to velvet, gabardine, or synthetic materials—which gives it a characteristic movement. Its elements include the fila (ribbon that holds it at the waist), presillas (tucks that give it fullness), and dobladillos (characteristic embellishments).
- The shawl: descendant of the ancient phulluThe shawl is used both to combat the cold and to decorate one's outfit during celebrations. It is made in a variety of materials, from simple wool to silk for special occasions.
- El aguayo: A rectangular, multicolored woven fabric, the aguayo is essential for carrying objects or, more frequently, children on one's back. Traditionally, it was woven from llama wool, but today it is abundant in cotton with colorful motifs.
- The winch: sash tied around the waist, which sometimes also serves as a hair ornament.
- Embroidered shirts and mantillas: In urban areas, it is common to see Aymaras wearing brightly colored shirts, long-sleeved blouses, and delicately embroidered mantillas.
- BowlerWoven from wool, rabbit felt, hare felt, or other materials, this hat arrived in the region by mistake but was adopted as a very distinctive feminine symbol. The shape and material can vary depending on the occasion and social status.
Every piece of clothing and accessory has a symbolic and practical value. Hairstyles, for example, were imposed during colonial times: Two long braids fall down her back, decorated with small balls of wool; The hairstyle parted in two helped distinguish Aymara women from mestizos and Spaniards, as ordered by Viceroy Toledo.
The use of earrings, beaded or silver necklaces, and other ornaments is common in ceremonies or festivities., with a meaning that can range from ornamental to ritual and protective.
Aymara men's clothing: diversity and functionality
Men's clothing is no less rich or significant. Men often wear garments of great utility and symbolism, many of them inherited from their pre-Hispanic ancestors.
Typical clothing and accessories
- Unku or woven shirt: A pre-Hispanic garment, the unku is worn as a tunic or shirt. It can be made in natural or dyed colors, with ornamental motifs that distinguish age or social status.
- Pants and belt: The custom of wearing pants arrived with colonization, but was soon adapted to local materials and shapes. The woven sash not only holds the garment in place but also adorns and protects the waist during agricultural activities.
- Poncho: One of the most emblematic elements of men's clothing, made of wool and in bright or earthy tones. Its uses are numerous: as a coat, a symbol of rank, or a symbol of festive occasions. Community leaders often wear more elaborate ponchos, in addition to the shawl and silver staff ('santurei').
- Hat with ear flaps: Characteristic for both children and adults, the knitted hat effectively protects against wind and rain.
- Chuspa: small hand-woven bag, essential for carrying coca leaves, food or small objects during work and rituals.
- Flip-flops: Durable sandals, traditionally made of leather, adapted for outdoor activities and long walks.
Cultural significance, identity and current events
Aymara clothing It fulfills multiple functions: it protects from the weather, distinguishes belonging to a community, reflects marital status, age and social rankFor example, the size and decoration of the bowler hat can indicate the wearer's level of authority or ceremonial rank. The color and motifs of the skirt or poncho also serve as identity markers within and outside the community.
Today, Traditional Aymara clothing is a symbol of pride and resistance, especially in urban regions such as La Paz, El Alto and Puno.The women known as "cholas paceñas" have turned the skirt, shawl, and bowler hat into emblems of social presence and empowerment, while clothing remains a part of rural life, where functionality, warmth, and connection to the land remain paramount.
The festivities and dances
The festivities, parades, dances and religious celebrations show how traditional garments are kept alive, fusing ancient elements with contemporary trends, reflecting a process of continuous reinvention and cultural preservation.
Aymara clothing maintains a fundamental link with the Andean worldview: Agricultural cycles, rituals, and celebrations are closely linked to the use of certain garments, the exchange of textiles, and collective production. Each thread and each color tells a story, and behind each garment are centuries of ingenuity and creativity thatstrengthen the identity of the people Aymara through time.